By David Rensin
There'll by no means be one other surfer like Miki 'Da Cat' Dora. For 20 years the speeding and enigmatic darkish prince of California browsing ruled the Malibu waves and his peers' imaginations, blazing a path that may encourage generations to return. but if the game exploded into the mainstream and browsing replaced for ever, Dora's paradise was once misplaced. Outraged at gridlocked swells and a scene that had grown ever extra commodified, Dora finally fled Malibu, looking empty waves - and anonymity - past the United States. He'd additionally run afoul of the legislations, and he led the gurus on a seven-year chase around the world. but, Dora might by no means quit looking for the spirit of the Malibu he'd misplaced. at any place he made his domestic - New Zealand, South Africa, France - he personified the insurgent center of browsing and have become a legend in his personal time. This tremendous biography, in response to interviews with greater than 300 those who knew Dora, ultimately uncovers the reality approximately surfing's so much seductive and intricate icon.
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Additional info for All for a Few Perfect Waves: The Audacious Life and Legend of Rebel Surfer Miki Dora
Syria… BOOM! Ha! ” 52 53 MORNING A man is a success if he gets up in the morning and goes to bed at night and in between does what he wants to do. Bob Dylan Mornings come peacefully on the road. I wake slowly with the daylight, turning in my sleeping bag, adjusting the bundle of clothes that act as my pillow and dozing once or twice until my head is clear and ready to begin the day. I lie still and listen to the sounds outside my tent. Sometimes birdsong, sometimes whooshing vehicles, sometimes water, sometimes silence.
Four teenage boys found me. Puffing feverishly on plastic bags of solvent, they shook the tent to wake me and demanded money, alcohol, cigarettes and, tragically, the glue from my puncture kit. Wide-eyed and desperate, they frightened me. I cannot remember their faces now, only the plastic bags inflating and emptying rhythmically and their desperation. I was trying to calm them but resigned to having to fight, when out of a nearby garage a short stocky man yelled at the kids to clear off. The boys sprinted away into the night.
They felt all the more mystical for their faintness. The link between the ancient artist and the modern me was so slight and tenuous and yet, and yet, that link still was there. A chap called Baz was obviously not as impressed as I. His name was scrawled on the carving of Jesus, borne on the donkey. At this time of year, tourists are few and the gift stall salesmen are lethargic like winter wasps. A bored onyx salesman described to me the idiosyncrasies of different nationalities. French people bought his products, Americans made a lot of noise but no action, the Japanese were too busy gazing down the alternate 59 reality of their viewfinders, whilst the English politely said, ‘No thanks’ and claimed to have no money.
All for a Few Perfect Waves: The Audacious Life and Legend of Rebel Surfer Miki Dora by David Rensin