By Luis de Lezama Barañano
«Soy clérigo y periodista. Ahora hasta párroco. Hago buenos sermones, aunque en realidad he terminado haciendo pasteles. Mejor aún, ni siquiera eso… Más bien hago que otros los hagan, ¡y muy bien hechos!
Mientras vosotros cocináis, acompañados de los consejos de nuestros habilidosos cooks que nos ilustran con sus recetas, os voy a contar algunas de las muchas anécdotas que han pasado por las mesas de los angeles Taberna del Alabardero.»
Luis de Lezama
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Additional info for La cocina del Alabardero: 50 recetas, 50 años
Ever since, the history o f modern nutritionism has been a history o f macronutrients at war: protein against carbs; carbs against proteins, and then fats; fats against carbs. Beginning with Liebig, in each age nutritionism has organized most o f its energies around an imperial nutrient: protein in the nineteenth century, fat in the twentieth, and, it stands to reason, carbohy drates will occupy our attention in the twenty-first. Meanwhile, in the shadow o f these titanic struggles, smaller civil wars have raged within the sprawling empires o f the big three: refined carbohydrates versus fiber; animal protein versus plant protein; NUTRITIONISM DEFINED Oi saturated fats versus polyunsaturated fats; and then, deep down within the province o f the polyunsaturates, omega-3 fatty acids versus omega-6s.
In January 1 9 7 7 , the committee issued a fairly straight forward set o f dietary guidelines, calling on Americans to cut down on their consumption o f red meat and dairy products. Within weeks a firestorm o f criticism, emanating chiefly from the red meat and dairy industries, engulfed the committee, and Senator McGovern (who had a great many cattle ranch ers among his South Dakota constituents) was forced to beat a retreat. The committee's recommendations were hastily re written. " Leave aside for now the virtues, i f any, o f a low-meat and/or 23 24 « IN DEFENSE OF FOOD low-fat diet, questions to which I will return, and focus for a m o m e n t on language.
Watch out for those health claims. FIVE « THE M E L T I N G O F THE LIPID H Y P O T H E S I S utritionism is good for the food business. But is it good JL \ | for us? You might think that a national fixation on nutri ents would lead to measurable improvements in public health. For that to happen, however, the underlying nutritional science and the policy recommendations (not to mention the journal ism) based on that science would both have to be sound. This has seldom been the case. The most important such nutrition campaign has been the thirty-year effort to reform the food supply and our eating habits in light o f the lipid hypothesis—the idea that dietary fat is responsible for chronic disease.
La cocina del Alabardero: 50 recetas, 50 años by Luis de Lezama Barañano